Honeymoon Review: Ashford Castle, West Ireland

Why go?

For a taste of the aristocratic high life in an opulent, 800-year-old castle set amongst 350 acres of ruggedly beautiful Irish countryside.

Honeymoon Style

Couples can act out their Lord of the Manor fantasies in this gloriously renovated, lakeside 13th-century castle, which offers endless indulgence and outdoors activities; an idyllic minimoon. It’s all about wandering aimlessly through the grounds, or with more purpose for a spot of clays, falconry or archery, then retreating swiftly with those Irish rain showers for afternoon tea in lavishly-dressed rooms, cocktails beneath the chandeliers or piping hot baths with views of Ireland at its rugged best.

Set the Scene

Only hotel guests are permitted to cross the moat that surrounds Ashford Castle, originally a medieval fortress that’s been extended over the centuries into something from the pages of a Brothers Grimm fairytale. The castle has history, grandeur and character in spades – from the suit of armour in the lobby to the elegant Connaught room, where guests take afternoon tea beneath Waterford crystal chandeliers, and the wine cellar, formerly the servants’ passageway, which now hosts private tastings.

The castle’s location beside Lough Corrib, Ireland’s second-largest lake, sets a tranquil scene. This being the west of Ireland, rain is practically guaranteed, so the focus is on hunkering down, relaxation and indulgence: from the excellent spa to the six restaurants and three bars. When clouds part, guests can soak up the unspoilt beauty of this part of Ireland, whether strolling through the 350-acre grounds (wellington boots and waterproof coats are provided), or taking advantage of the many outdoor pursuits: from horse riding and fishing, to falconry, kayaking, archery, tennis, clay-pigeon shooting and golf (the hotel has a private nine-hole course).

Staff will cheerily recount that the nearby village of Cong was the backdrop to the 1952 John Wayne film A Quiet Man; a fact that attracts many American guests. The film is available to watch on bedroom televisions and the hotel organises regular screenings in its private cinema.

Rooms

Some rooms feature four-poster beds and working fireplaces, others include freestanding baths that look out across the lake. Like the rest of the hotel, decor exudes historic grandeur: expect jacquard wallpaper and matching drapes; polished mahogany, antiques and oil paintings aplenty.

The Guinness Boathouse is designed with honeymooners in mind: situated next to the lake, five minutes’ walk from the castle down a private, gated road, the one-bedroom former boathouse offers utter seclusion. Couples are welcomed with a huge hamper of treats, and the cocktail trolley and fridge are amply stocked with spirits, wine, Champagne and snacks. With its own sun deck for when the weather permits and a gas fireplace for when it doesn’t, there’s really no need to leave – although a car back to the castle is always a phone call away.

Eco-friendly

Ashford Castle was awarded a gold standard in sustainability by Green Hospitality Ireland thanks to an array of initiatives including the use of solar panels, composting, a thriving kitchen garden, and the introduction of eight beehives to support native wildlife. Guests are ferried around the estate in electric vehicles, and 100% of the energy used in the estate comes from renewable sources. The hotel has eliminated 95% of all single-use plastic, with plans to eradicate the remainder by the end of 2023.

Food and Drink

Staff quip that their job is to ensure no guest goes hungry or thirsty, and it’s a mission they take seriously. Days might begin with a full Irish breakfast or buttermilk pancakes in the grand George V dining room, washed down with a mimosa from the breakfast cocktail trolley. Lunch might be smoked salmon and an Irish charcuterie board in the drawing room, a silver-service afternoon tea in the Connaught room, or burgers and club sandwiches at Stanley’s, the American-style diner.

Dinner options are similarly varied: a casual seafood supper across the moat at Cullen’s at the Cottage (previously the village cinema); a Guinness-fuelled feast at the Dungeon restaurant; or a five-course tasting menu at the formal George V dining room, where waiters wear tuxedos and the sommelier can recommend fine wine from the 3,000-bottle cellar. After dinner, retreat to a leather armchair in the Prince of Wales Bar, or upstairs to the Billiards Room for a nightcap or three.

Family-Friendly

Staying in a castle is made all the more magical for children thanks to touches such as a Lego butler, who’ll bring Lego to the room on a silver tray; a map of ‘fairy paths’ throughout the gardens; and personalised bedtime story books. Practicalities such as children’s menus, high chairs and cots are taken care of, and staff can organise a matinee screening of a favourite kid’s film, complete with popcorn or an indoor picnic. Older children will enjoy the indoor games room, and, for some off-screen time, the outdoor activities, from tennis to riding.

Spa

Named Ireland’s best hotel spa for eight consecutive years, the Spa at Ashford Castle overlooks the lake, with decor that hints at the castle’s medieval beginnings. It features a small but beautiful pool (booking is advised), a hammam and steam room, and a well-equipped gym. Treatments include massages and facials using Elemis, Natura Bisse, Voya or the castle’s own B|Africa range, with holistic treatments alongside technology-driven facials. All are administered by therapists who combine technical expertise with effusive warmth. Save time post-treatment to luxuriate in the relaxation room over herbal tea and stacks of glossy magazines.

In addition to the castle spa, the hotel recently opened a state-of-the-art health and wellness centre in the nearby Lodge at Ashford Castle, complete with 15-metre pool, jacuzzi, steam room, sauna, gym and fitness studio. Rainy days here are rarely a blow – more an excuse for couples to cocoon themselves in either the spa or the health and wellness centre, stewing in the jacuzzi and allowing all that wedding cortisol to evaporate.

The Story

Built in 1228 as a stronghold for the de Burgo family, over the centuries Ashford Castle has been passed along various aristocratic clans; notably the Guinness family, who were custodians from 1852 until 1939, when the castle was converted into a hotel. In 2013 the castle was bought by the Red Carnation Hotels group, which undertook a no-expense-spared, five-year renovation to bring it back to its former glory. It paid off – Ashford Castle is regularly cited as one of Ireland’s best hotels.

Location

Ashford Castle sits bang on the border of County Galway and County Mayo in the west of Ireland – a three-hour drive from Dublin airport. Guests arriving from London can fly from Luton to the tiny West Ireland Airport (Knock) – a 50-minute drive away. The local, postcard-worthy village of Cong is worth exploring on a sunny afternoon, though for a livelier day trip, Galway is an hour’s drive away.